Reflections on the Maltese Shutdown

Not even Hitler and his non-stop bombing of this tiny (17 miles long x 9 miles wide) historical island could stop the bells of 375 churches (yup, that’s one for every day of the year, plus some to spare!) from ringing, but… a virus did!

Malta and its sister islands Gozo and Comino have withstood the onslaught of pirates, Suliman the great of the Ottoman Empire, then Hitler. The islanders fought tooth and nail against every invasion… but this last invasion shook the islanders into total shock and horror. How do you fight an unseen invader? How do you annihilate it? How do you protect its huge population (March 2020 – 441,227)?

I landed in Malta on Thursday 5th March (virus free at that point) to work on a week’s contract. My guests arrived the following day. By the time my guests and I were ready to depart Malta for our next stage of the tour, Gozo, my driver informed me that the first case of the virus had been reported… a 12 year-old girl travelling back to Malta with her parents from Italy had been the first case.

Friday 13th – back at Malta airport seeing my guests off amid disruption. Finally, late in the afternoon, the last of my guests boards his flight back to the UK (this was due to Air Malta cancelling his morning flight and I / guest not made aware).

My flight home was scheduled for Wednesday 18th so that I could have quality time with my youngest who lives and works in Malta. My journey back to my son’s flat was busy as usual. Relaxing after a very trying day at the airport my mind kept thinking… something isn’t right here… I finally twigged… the island was as silent as the tomb that Christ was laid to rest in after his crucifixion.

Upper Barracka Garden

The island has always been known as the island of bells and smells (the latter now not the case). A decision had been made that, until further notice, all Masses/church celebrations were to be cancelled… what a devastating effect this had on Malta’s 93.9% of Catholics.  Even the World War II bomb (500kg, high explosive) during a German air raid, pierced the dome of Mosta church, fell to the floor, zig-zagged across the marble like lightning, came to rest… it didn’t explode! 300 parishioners were spared.

The situation re flights out of Malta was now getting to be a serious situation. My company (with my agreement) managed to book me on a flight back to the UK on Monday 16th March. My son and I had 2 days of time together.

Sunday March 15th – the perfume was intoxicating. As I walked from the village of Zabbar to the pretty village of Marsaskala I took in the heady perfume of stocks growing in an adjacent field. The sun warmed my face and body as I walked… along the way, I encountered a smell of fresh broad beans being sold by a lady on the footpath. I walked on, clearing my head of the awful tragedy that had taken over our world. Finally, my goal was in view… Marsaskala lay peaceful, its Mediterranean water glistening in the sunshine.

My son drove down to meet me for lunch… it is said that if a Maltese person could drive to bed they would! We enjoyed my favourite summer-time tipple, Aperole Spritz, followed by a light lunch. People were lunching with families and friends in the glorious sunshine… that evening saw a total shutdown of restaurants, bars and cafés… the island retreated into a tomb-like setting. My two glorious days came to an end as I boarded my flight to return back home to Welling.

Enjoy life… while you have it. See the beauty of life around you. Stay strong and positive.

Evelyn Kincaid